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Rowing, particularly in an easily pulled traditional rowboat design is an enjoyable and exceptionally healthy form of recreation. In addition to strengthening arm, leg, back and stomach muscles it increases stamina and cardiovascular endurance. It’s a smooth, even exercise. A good, steady rower in an efficient rowboat can maintain four or five knots for hours at a time.
Rowing a boat is as good for your mind as it is for your waist and muscles. The comforting rhythm of the stroke promotes a sense of peacefulness as you explore small creeks and islands and row past quiet natural shorelines.
As you explore you become more fit, more alive, more responsive to your surroundings and more a part of them. You feel good and appreciate that your actions do not violate the stillness of the water environment.
Friends or family can come along and share the aesthetic aspects of an activity that doesn’t pollute and adds nothing to the environment but peace and natural rhythms.
People attempting to row boats designed specifically for outboard motors have unfortunately developed a belief that rowing is hard work and slow going. These boats are indeed hard to row in most conditions and difficult to dangerous under oars in high winds and waves. Often their oarlock sockets are insufficiently strong or situated improperly adding to the unpleasant experience.
Rowing is much more efficient than paddling because all the energy is utilized to drive the boat forward. As the oar is pivoted on the oarlock it acts as a long, powerful lever that wastes little energy and allows great distances to be traveled with little strain. Anyone who has attempted to paddle a canoe a considerable distance against a strong wind knows how tiring paddling can be.
A good rowboat keeps moving well between strokes. It also tracks along a straight course when rowed evenly. A boat from 12 to 17 feet in length is ideal with double positions on boats over 14 feet. Older designs from before the age of the internal combustion engine are excellent rowboats. The Whitehall Skiff is probably the best known. John Gardner’s book Building Classic Small Craft will introduce you to many traditional rowboat designs. It is notable that the most efficient boats are often the most attractive.
A double position craft such as the Whitehall Spirit is ideal for
tandem rowing. It’s great to be able to spell each other off and
then really put on the speed together. In tandem rowing the person
sitting in the bow position copies the stroke rate of their partner,
staying carefully in time.
If you are using a rowboat for the first time, wear a vest styled PFD (personal floatation device) and have someone nearby keep an eye on you. Always have your PFD in the boat if not on. In many places this is a legal requirement. Keep lifejackets on small children. There are many comfortable vest style designs now available. Have a bailer or a small bucket aboard (also legally required). A small sounding device such as an air horn or a whistle may also be required by Coast Guard.
If you wish to change places while rowing be sure the boat is stable enough. To do so safely keep your weight low and centered in the boat as much as possible.
Most boats currently being manufactured feature positive, built-in flotation. Whitehall boats feature integral buoyancy tanks capable of keeping the boat up with crew aboard even when the hull is full of water. The buoyancy should be positioned either in the ends of the boat or along the sides. This insures that if the boat is capsized it can be re-righted and will float level and thus be capable of being baled out.
It’s a good idea to tell someone responsible where you are going and when you expect to return before a long row. Take along something to drink and some food. Enjoying a tasty snack on an uninhabited islet or while simply drifting in the open sea is a savory experience. A potato salad, croissants and pat, a sip of wine or a cold beverage with the sun beating down and a nice soft breeze while the water laps playfully on the hull; these sensations are the stuff of life not soon forgotten.
Plan your trip and watch your weather particularly when rowing in an exposed area. Know what the tide is doing and stage your rowing so that you’re going with the tidal flow as much as possible. On rivers, row upstream if you are not familiar with the stretch to avoid uncomfortable rapids or overfalls and make the return trip more relaxing.
If there is a chance of being out after dark it’s a good plan to carry a waterproof flashlight and perhaps some flares. If possible keep these stowed in a compartment aboard.
Clothing is a consideration. Wear or bring a sun hat. Sunglasses will cut reflective glare. Long sleeves or trouser legs can be rolled up for tanning or rolled down to prevent burning.
Selecting your oars will depend on the type of rowing you plan to do and the boat used. The range of types includes everything from simple knockabouts to composite fiber sculls. A well made set of spruce spoon oars is perfect.
The oars should be correctly fitted to the beam and length of the boat. the required length of your oars is about twice the beam of the boat. Smaller dinghies and tenders have the oars set so their grips are across from each other about 2 thumbs apart on the return stroke. On larger craft more leverage is gained, giving a more powerful stroke by overlapping the grips 5 inches or so. Maneuvering is a little easier with non-lapped oars, particularly for a beginner.
Using your oars correctly will make a big difference. When learning simply hold the oars at the same angle for the entire stroke. Later, when you’re more experienced try dropping your wrists at the end of each stroke. This will feather the oars, bringing the blades parallel to the water’s surface reducing windage. Carry the blade 2 or 3 inches above the surface on the return stroke. A foot brace or Stretcher will allow leg power to be used and more importantly anchor your position in the boat. To initiate the stroke, use your leg muscles, then your back, and finally pull with bended arms.
Pull with your blades just under the surface, not buried deep underwater. The pitch or angle of the blade as it enters the water at the beginning of the stroke is critical to controlling the oar. If the pitch angle is too far forward the blade will wash out and splash along the surface. If the pitch angle is too far back the blade will want to dive deep underwater. Continue to adjust the pitch angle and you will find it is easy to determine when you have it right.
Bring the boat up to an even speed gradually and keep it steady. Sometimes pulling too hard will actually slow the boat by trying to force it to climb up on it’s own bow wave. Row smoothly and evenly applying comfortable power rather than high tempo.
Because you face aft (backwards) in a rowboat, you observe the places you’ve been instead of constantly watching where you’re going, a refreshing viewpoint! A glance ahead every few strokes is enough to stay fully aware of your surroundings at rowing speeds in open water. Looking ahead is easiest at the end of the pull phase of the stroke. Treat it as a gentle stretch exercise turning your head first one way, then the other way nest time.
For added visibility and ease of handling in crowded conditions some boats can be rowed backwards or astern. The oarlock and seat arrangement in certain boats enable the rower to shift position and row facing forwards.
The most common problem for novice rowers is overdoing it. Pulling on the oars just feels so great as the boat surges ahead with every stroke, that people don’t notice their muscles, unaccustomed to this new activity, have been strained. Take it easy, row gently and firmly, glance ahead every third or fourth pull to see what’s coming up. Relax, enjoy the fresh air, the sounds of the water and one of the oldest pleasurable water experiences known.
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